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 Post subject: Valve Adjustment
PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 8:38 pm 
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dLk Redneck
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Now for adjusting those Beetle valves. Always adjust valves when the engine is cold, not warm but "Dead Cold".

Rotate the crankshaft Clock-wise (this can be done with the Generator Pulley Nut (9) if the belt is held tight.)

With the distributor cap removed, line up the rotor (5) with the #1 cylinder spark plug wire.
(At the small notch (6) on the top edge of the distributor body)

The TDC (0') mark on the crank pulley (8) should line up with the crankcase center parting line.(7)

Both intake (2) and exhaust valves (1) are set at .006 unless your cam card says different or you have a 40hp.

How to find TDC on compression Stroke.
With the Right side valve cover removed Rotate the engine Clockwise (the way it runs) until the ex. valve (front right side) on #1 cylinder opens & closes. Then the Intake valve (second from front right) will open and close. The Next time the piston comes to the top after the intake valve closes will be Top Dead Center (TDC) on Compression Stroke. This is your starting Point. ( with the spark plug removed and a soft length of wire in the plug hole) the exact TDC can be located by rocking the crank back & forth. Also mark BDC ---( 27 degrees is about 1 5/8" to the right of the TDC mark and 31 degrees is about 1 7/8" to the right of the TDC mark on the stock 7" dia pulley ) --- But this is not the way to get these figures and all VW pulleys are not the same.



The following method has worked best for us.

1). Jack up the right side of the car (easier to get to the valves, and keeps the oil from running out when valve cover is removed).

2). If not on TDC #1 as described above turn crankshaft clock-wise until the #1 cylinder intake valve (1) closes (Intake valve is second one from the front on right side).

Continue turning the pulley clock-wise until the TDC mark (8) on the pulley lines up with the crank case parting line (7) (Top Dead Center on the compression stroke.)

If its a stock beetle and the distributor drive was installed properly the ignition rotor (5) will be pointing behind the right rear wheel, and in line with the notch (6) on the distributor body.

If you don't have a degree pulley then take special care to mark TDC and BDC on your crank pulley or get one that's already marked.

3). Ok now we are on TDC on compression on #1 cylinder. Set both valves on #1 cylinder to .006". (or what your aftermarket cam card suggested.) new locking Nuts

When you feel a slight drag on the .006" feeler gage (3), tighten the 13mm nut (4) Then recheck the clearance to make sure nothing moved. new adjusters

4). Next turn the crank counter clock-wise, that's backwards ½ turn (180'), so the BDC mark lines up with the case parting line (7) and set both intake and exhaust valves on #2 cylinder to .006"

Now the right side is done.

We always check the valve covers on the head without the gasket to make sure they are flat and don't rock from side to side. (Bent valve covers will leak.)

Remove all oil from the sealing surface and replace the valve cover using a new gasket.

The head surface should be bare, no oil or sealer.

Gasket sealer can be applied to the valve cover, But "Do Not Use" Silicon Seal.

5). Next jack up the left side of the car and remove the valve cover.

Rotate the crank ½ turn counter clock-wise until the TDC mark aligns with case parting line, and set both of #3 valves to .006".

6). Then rotate the crank ½ turn counter clock-wise again to the mark and set both #4 valves to .006".

Wipe all oil off the sealing surface and replace the valve cover using a new gasket.

If any of the valves were tight (less then .006" clearance) be sure to make a note of it in your log book for later reference.

Note: If the valve stem is worn then the feeler gauge simply bridges the dish. The feeler gauge can not flex enough to accurately check the gap, so you end up with loose valves and possible a ticking noise. Try adjusting it with an indicator, install lash caps or install the captive ball adjusters. (remember to install the spacers under the rocker stands when using captive balls or lash caps so the rocker geometry will be correct ) The rocker needs to move a little more then the thickness of a dollar bill (.004"). It's far better to have the valves a little loose then to tight, as tight valves cause all kinds of problems.

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Ethan Dunlap
Concrete By Dunlap
Spring, Texas
" Just Happy To Own A Split"


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 Post subject: Re: Valve Adjustment
PostPosted: Fri Dec 04, 2020 4:58 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2008 9:21 am
Posts: 1906
Location: Austin
Learning this method of watching the Intake valve open and close .. and knowing that 1 and 3 are ALWAYS TDC right after the intake valve closed and 2 and 4 are ALWAYS BDC . is super helpful on getting a motor to run right away.. when guessing where timing is can make for a long day sometimes.. and pulling a VC can make super quick work on this information .. once confirmed.. placing the plug wires over the respective pole the rotor is pointing to .. this process is very simple
it attaches to the above VALVE ADJUSTMENT outline.. and can make getting any motor running so much easier .

:thumbs:

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DLK Austin


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 Post subject: Re: Valve Adjustment
PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2020 8:23 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2008 8:02 pm
Posts: 6228
Location: Spring Texas
Good info

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Wayne aka FOG

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