chrysler already called dibs on that.

Try and build yourself a motor, thats my opinion. If anything, you learn how to take one apart! Once you get the case cleaned up you'll know if you can keep going, or search for a better case. At the worst, you could buy a new case. It really isn't as hard as it seems.

I have read through so much on new cases and it seems like all everyone does is argue, people complain about stuff not lining up, and they need so much work to make usable, It's hard to sift through all the garbage and find out what the truth is.

So, is it better to find (or hope to find) an older case that is in good shape.

I bought a new VW case, and it seems nice enough. Brian has an alum case and its pretty sharp. The problem with old cases is most have been rebuilt at least once, or twice. The more it gets redone the further the tolerance get out of whack. If you are building a mild motor that won't matter, but if you want to go big its better to start fresh....

who makes the Alum case that Brian (that's mk right) have,

I have been grinding this around in my head and I think I am going to go with building one myself, I need the experience and I might as well get it now,

I think I will see if I can locate something used and build something mild and save up the money to build something bigger after I am done with the body and other stuff, the important thing is to just get in there and build.


Thanks for sticking with me on this topic, and if someone out there has and engine I can start with preferably with the tins (but not needed) let me know.

dan

mk-Zero = Brian = me

Go for it man, it's pretty easy, and fun too

The AL case is made by Auto Linea, but the finishing work is done by different companies and sold under their names. Mine is a BugPack, but CB sells them too, among others. It's pretty nice, but needed some attention to detail to make it to my standards.
When you are looking at used motors for your foundation, make sure to check the crank end play, it shouldn't be more than several thousandths of an inch, ie you should barley be able to feel it. If its a lot, the thrust surface of the case has been beat to hell, and so its going to need a new thrust cut as well as an align bore. Better not to go there if avoidable. Also, engines that have been align bored are often stamped somewhere on the top of the case, so you might see a 020, or an 040, etc, indicating the amount its been align bored. One that hasn't been at all is best if you can find it, but they are getting rare. Also, make sure its a dual relief case, meaning it has two of those big slotted plugs on the drivers side bottom of the case, one by the pulley, and one by the flywheel.

thanks mk, I will make sure to check on the things you mentioned, I never knew that they stamped on the top of the case if it has been bored,

also on those AL cases, what was it that you were not happy with, I would think that when a company gets it and does the finishing work that it should not have any issues with it.

dan

Mainly one of the bearing saddles was not flat. Also, the oil pressure relief piston seating surface was horrible. Other than that I de-burred all the sharp edges from machining to improve oil drainage, I blueprinted the oil piston bores, I blueprinted the distributor drive bore, lots of little stuff like that, but I'm more obsessed with detail than most...