I have a 2" narrowed beam with factory installed "Puma" style adjusters and 2.5" lowered spindles. I also have GR-2 shocks.
With the upper shock mounts unbolted and the adjusters really loose the grub screws are in the lowest down position. They do not rotate up as the weight of the car is added.... the only way to rotate the adjusters up (lower the car), is to literally put a bottle jack under the adjuster and force it up. This can only be forced up maybe 4 teeth on the adjusters.
I currently have the car lowered to where the front apron sheet metal is 4.75" off the ground. This is not a bad look, but the ride is not good. Very rough to the point that my wife hates to ride with me.....bummer!
It seems like the adjusters are not working as they should be....maybe the beams/leafs aren't assembled correctly???

Any body got any ideas as to how I can keep the car lowered and have a better ride????

Some say go with oil shocks , maybe short shocks , or air shocks .. Let some of the more experience guys chime in..

Well, I acquired a set of oil filled shocks for a lowered front end. (EMPI #9653 the shorter ones)
I could barely get them on. Had to use a floor jack under the trailing arm and push the shock (fully extended) up so the threaded top mount would fit through the shock tower. Got it bolted on but the front end was lowered to the point that the trailing arms had little movement....test drove just for experiment....horrible to say the least.
Maybe I should get a set of standard length oil filled shocks so that they just replace the GR-2s, but that still doesn't solve the almost unmoveable adjuster problem...

So with the tires off and the shocks off you have a hard time moving the arms and the adjusters loose. If so sounds like something is binding in the tubes.

Yup! The adjusters hardly move unless they are forced and then they only move a small amount....

Are you using the stock torsion bearings? You need to have the arms move real easy with all the stuff off. Find out where is is binding.. I know you already know that.

Who built the beam?
I would completely remove the adjuster bolts and shocks and see if the trailing arms loosen up and can travel completely thru its movement.

New beam was built by Car Craft in Riverside, CA. I will admit, as good as it looked, I had several problems. The "new" steering box as well as the steering arm both had stripped splines (looked as though the builder had tried to sledge hammer the arm onto the steering box shaft screwing up both (btw, they did replace them). Also one of the camber adjusters was misdrilled and did not fit, but the builder just tried to force it on and just put the bolt on. I replaced it myself.
So, it is conceivable that something is screwed up inside of the beams. My next move is to do what you'all have suggested. remove the wheels, shocks and let the adjusters go loose and see if the arms move freely. That should at least get me to first base...

This will take me a couple of days but I'll let you know what I find.

Thanks one and all for your input.

p.s. Just to keep the thought going, what if the arms don't move freely??? What's the fix? New needle bearings, New beam bushings???

If the arms don't move freely I would remove the spindles and check upper and lower separately but I would remove the bolt from the adjusters before removing the spindles and make sure it's not binding up because of the adjusters being welded in wrong.

what dug said.