Removed #1/#2 head this evening. Its pretty carbon up but the valves look ok.

Now what !!?? When taking the head off #3/#4, one of the studs outside the valve area came out of the block with its threaded insert.

What's the best way to get the insert off the stud? Or do I just double nut the stud and tighten stud and insert back into the block ? By the way what's the torque specs for the stud to block - "B" series 1600?

Note: I wasn't planning on removing the cylinders

Put it back in.

If they are 8mm its only 18 ft pounds.

Thanks

Got the estimate back from the machine shop on the heads and I guess the good news is the castings are ok - no cracks or signs of being over heated. They told me that they'll need to replace the the valve guides, all the valves (apparantly the valve stems have been cupped due to the valve clearance being set too tight - is that common?), regrind the seats and surface the head.

any new pic's from the body shop?

also who is doing the heads? around here that usualy runs between 100-150 for a set.

The machine shop I am using is called Automotive Machine in Fort Worth. Both heads along with resurfacing the flywheel and a new gland nut is running around $330.00. The body shop is running so slow I think the car is rusting faster than they can repair it , but here is the latest on the floor pan

Cant wait to see it in color. Keep the updates coming we love pictures around here

Got the heads and flywheel from the machine shop this weekend, so I guess I will start putting the engine back together. I still have to clean and paint all the tin - was thinking about using Por15. Also while we were out collecting the bits from the machine shop we swung over to the body shop to see if they were doing / or have done anything on the Bug. Well they were going hard after it ...

looking good dude! Just the machine work on my type 4 heads was $650, thats stock size valves and zero porting so I'm saying you type 1 guys are lucky.