dka65 wrote:
slammerd wrote:
Im back, but only while I brush my teeth.
I have used a few different types of wires. I would suggest useing the .030 wire either gas or flux, and turn the heat almost all the way up if you are useing a 110V, for the pans. I would do plug welds. I have found that with the higher heat you get a good penetration on the thicker flange of the og pan(the metal where the plug weld would be welding to). Yes it will burn through the replacement pan metal pretty easy, but if you keep your weld centered, you shouldnt have too much problem with the burn through. If you are welding up sheetmetal, then the .023 or .030 will work, but you will have to play with the heat. On mine, I can only do a #3 for heat with the .030 and #4 for heat with the .023. I hope this helps you out. I want to see you workin that car.
I'll be working on it trust me, I want to see this thing on the road and my plans have already been shot to hell, on the puddle welding you do not burn through on the pans, what is your procedure for a puddle weld,
I punch a hole about 1/4" from the edge of the replacement pan. Then I start on the back edge(closest to the tunnel) of the hole and then as the puddle is forming, start to work it back and forth to the front edge. I have found that if the metal that I am welding on is more than about 2 layers thick or 3/16" of an inch, I get a nice plug with no burn through on my highest heat setting with .030 on a 110V. If you look at my build up and see the plug welds on the ragtop clip that is the same method I used there.[/quote]
OK, I was told to start dead center and work in circle outward until I get to the new metal and it is there that only the metal burns through[/quote]
Yeah I have done that too. The problem I was getting when I did it that way was I missed some of the circle where I punched the metal on the back side. You will get a tiny bit of burn through if your holes are not completely on the thick metal. I had one hole that didnt line up on the ragtop for the plug weld. Still did it the way I had been doing it, and still didnt have any burn through. Trust me though, I had to play around with the settings quite a bit to find what worked where and in what situations. If I used the highest heat and the .030 on just sheetmetal, I would get a dime sized burn through hole as soon as there was an arc. Cut the heat to the next setting down and would only get burn through if I held the weld for more than 5 sec, so I just learned to do a spot, let it cool for a sec, then do another spot, let it cool for a sec.... right in a row to get a cont. weld with no burn through.
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that roof sounds like it can be fixed