Finally had some time to work on the bug again - work sucks the fun out of life.

After several attempts, I finally got the trans to stop leaking. The guilty party was the screw-in reverse light switch housing. A welder and grinder did the trick. No more pool of 90 wt. hypoid oil.

I also installed the bowden tube so the acc. cable would no longer cut into the trans. case - another good thing to fix.

My issue now is the roller pedal and the acc. cable. The carb butterflies are only opening past 1/4 or so when you push the go pedal to the floor. The bug motored down the road OK yesterday, but the inability to reach 3/4 or WOT is holding back the horses.

Also, I noticed the roller pedal is sloppy side to side; seems to be a lack of tension from the acc. cable. I don't see anything broken.

I do wonder if in my previous ham-fisted work the acc. cable got overstretched. I bought a new cable - any tips on installing (other than lots of grease and patience.)

The roller pedal can be shimmed for side to side movement by adding washers. I have also ground down the the stop bar to get WOT before.

You will need someone to pull the bowden tube down when you feed the cable. You wont need alot of grease. Also to consider is where the center pull on the hexbar is located. You might need to rotate one click so it is pointing more towards the rear of the car instead of down.
As far as the roller pedal.... You need to add shims to where it mounts to the factor VW base. I use washers that i grind down to fit. Use emory cloth. It will cut faster than sand paper.

You won't need anymore grease there is plenty in there already. Just push it through, jack the back drivers side up so you can crawl under it then push it back through the tube. I just changed one on a gas station parking lot a couple of weeks ago. Had my 10 year old that tube cause it kept pushing out.

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to look at adjusting the center pull on the hexbar, moving it more towards the rear - that might solve the accelerator cable issue.

Stupid question: Do I need to pull back the pedal assembly to add shims for the roller pedal?

It depends on how tight the pin is. You might be able to get it out with out removing the pedal assembly, but I doubt it....

the pin should be put in from the tunnel side. I doubt there is enough room to back it out without unbolting from the tunnel.

thanks. I might be able to get to the pin by using my buddy's lift.

I'm still struggling with the acc. cable angle - can't get much past 1/4 throttle. It looks like I either need to grind down one of the roller pedal stops or use a throttle cable extension. I ran out of acc. cable length when I tried to increase the cable connector angle on the hex bar.

we must be talking about two different things the pin I am talking about holds the roller pedal on the pedal assembly, a lift will do you no good at all.

I follow you now - no a lift wouldn't help Hopefully I can get this straighten out before the weekend - nice car show at the local college this Saturday.