ConcreteAce wrote:
mk-Zero wrote:
wow, looks like I missed all the fun!
from *my* understanding, the difference between a true LSD and an ATB is that with the LSD one wheel can have zero traction, and the diff will still lock and apply power to both wheels, like a spool would. With an ATB, they have a torque bias ratio that limits the ratio of traction between both wheels where the diff can still drive the wheel with most traction. That ratio could be say 3:1, so a long as one wheel has one third or more the traction of the other, it will still be able to apply power to the wheel with most traction. If one wheel has no traction, or less than the TBR compared to the other wheel, it behaves like an open diff. an open diff on the other hand will always send power to the wheel with the least amount if traction, which leads to the "one wheel burnout."
True LSD diffs usually use some type of clutch mechanism coupled to an open diff, and ATBs use an arrangement of helical gears and look nothing like an open diff.
the ATB diff is considered safer for a street car, more streetable, and better for auto-x. LSDs are considered better for high speed road racing. For drag racing I think they are roughly equal.
Yep that is how Rancho described it to me when I had my tranny built for the ragtop . I cant wait for your feedback on how it handles. It is gonna be Bad Ass for sure!
thanks, yeah, I can't wait!
Mike was cool and spent a lot of time discussing it with me, and of course I spent a lot of time researching it on the internet. there's a lot of good info out there. it seemed worth the money to me since I am trying to make my car handle now. before when I would exit a fast turn and nail it it would light up the inner wheel and the car wouldn't accelerate, then finally it would grab and take off like a bat out of hell. Im hoping that with the ATB I'll be able to apply power even under high cornering forces. Part of that will be sorting my chassis out too though to keep the rear inner wheel from unloading as much. Fun stuff!
