Negative duder, type 3's have an eccentric bolt on the ball joints for adjusting camber in the front. True we don't have any caster adjustment in the front .

For a type 3

front:
toe in- use the tie rods, you want about 1/16" of toe-in
camber- I need to look up the specs but about .5-1.0 degree of negative camber won't eat up tires at all
caster- NA

rear:
toe in- I just loosen my spring plates and pull the axles as far back as I can. When you lower the rear it gives you a stupid amount of toe-in so all you can do is minimize the tire wear (and drag) by adjust it as far out as you can. There are spring plates that help correct that.
camber- don't lower the rear if you don't want neg camber
caster- it's also a affected the above toe in adjustment

You can string align it. Not difficult read about it on the net and it's pretty straight forward

Nick, there's no such thing as caster in the rear, caster is related to steering...

Can T3's not use caster shims in the front? I haven't looked at a T3 front end recently enough to remember if it would be possible...

On the rear, you can elongate the holes in the springplates to allow for more tow adjustment...

I have seen pieces of a beam cut out to make shims for a type 3. MKZ, its not round tubing like a type 1

I will volunteer to help lower it, but I come with a discaimer: "All type 3's I've lowered have been slammed to within centimeters of their life"

We can do it at the clear lake show thats how weeeedoit. Seriously, we dropped a single cab at octo, and a type 3 is 10x easier. I'd bet an hour tops if all my tools are lined up, good floor jack and jack stands, and someone handing me gatorade.

Seriously, the only thing I would even worry about when lowering it is:

Has the rear been touched before. Sometimes the springplates get rusted to the torsion bar, and that can be a real bitch
Did you already swap out to short axles, cause you may have some fitment issues in the rear depending on your tire and backspacing
When was the last time the front end was apart? recently? then the ball joints should pop right out and make life easy. If not...


If I would have seen this earlier I would have brought some car clothes to work today, I'm not doing shit after work tonight... When is good for you chuck? I'm halfway serious about doing it at the show. I would do it and if anyone said anything, I'd say it broke on the freeway coming in, just trying to help Roll in High, and get low at the show Tomorrow and Saterday I'm busy, I think Sunday is pretty open.

It IS that easy....

You are correct Sir!

I haven't heard of caster shims for a type 3 beam so I'm assuming they don't exist. You only need them if you have a huge rake, like the DKP cars run.

String alignment is relatively close but when I let the car down I noted that it all changed. Had to recheck while on the ground. I did not have the weight of the body but I would suspect that raised vs. additional weight of body would change it even more.

Its probly close but you need the body and motor in. We always back up and drive forward with wheel straight and check it. Adjust and do it all over again till I get it where I like it.

Installed the shifter today.....