seats do look nice!

It's alive! I went back and made sure to retighten all the manifold to clear any a
Vacuum leaks. Then reset the valves, carb, points and timing. Hooked up the fuel line and varoooom it started! Let it run awhile, sounding pretty good, and then shut it down. Went to restart and dang it was doing the same thing as the first time, start but ran like crap and would idle only if you kept jacking with the throttle. Made sure the carb bowel was getting fuel, spark was there but could not keep it running. However the one thing I did hear all this was the idle cutoff valve clink when the ignition was turned on. A couple of taps and it started working and varoooom!
Are these new Valves prone to stcking?

I'm not sure about sticking. I'm sure you could clean it with carb cleaner. VW installed those valves to stop the motor from dieseling when shut off. If your motor is in good tune then you don't need it. If your motor diesels its a good indicator you need to look at it to see why its running hot and check your valves, ignition, etc.
If you want to disable permanently: Pull out the plunger and cut it off with some big wire cutters or tin snips. You can then tape up the wire or remove it from where its hooked up.

Hummm thats a thought

Try to clean it first.

It has to be on the carb for it to run. If you hear it click then it's working like it should be. You can clip the end off and bam problem fixed.

If this is what you are talking about. Mine is not even hooked up to power but the end is cut off.

Thanks for the info.
Another issued popped up.... A couple of the push rod tube seals are leaking (about a drip a second) and really do not to tear everything apart again, pull the head, and try to get those seal right. When I was putting the engine together I must installed, uninstalled the head at least three times.
Any suggestions?

They make some spring loaded ones for quick fixes. They probly got compressed putting them on and taking them off. When building a motor I use new tubes and put a little permatex on each end. I hate it when the tubes leak. A real pain in the butt. I've used the spring tube by empi on a motor before and it worked fine.

...but the spring loaded tubes can get expensive if you need to replace all of them. If the motor is just mounted to your chassis, just do it right and pull the heads.....one more time!

You can use the adjustable push rod tubes, they have a threaded adjustment with a back nut to tighten'em up. Better then the spring type. Just my 0.02